Estonia Part 2

Thu 23rd May, 2013

Though we dipped on lekking Great Snipe in the Tartu area (the evening was probably too cold) there were many compensations. Flooded fields we happened upon nearby contained more Ruffs, a Red-necked Grebe in breeding plumage, Pintail, Little Gulls, Tundra Bean Geese, another male Montagu’s Harrier and Grey-headed Wagtail. At Ilmatsalu Fishponds we watched a Penduline Tit at close quarters building its elaborate nest and singing, while earth on the trail disturbed by Wild Boar was scattered with Scarlet Elf Cups. We also had a worn-looking Large Tortoiseshell here, a species extinct in Britain. 

But our favourite day of the trip was spent on a trail within the vast Alam-Pedja reserve, where Scots Pine, Silver Birch and Spruce forest was interspersed with open boggy areas. Thrush Nightingales were singing, while down side trails female Elks loafed in the early morning mist. Green Sandpipers flew up from the water channels bordering the forest and a Beaver lay half-submerged near its dam, watching us with beady eyes. Garganey and Goldeneye swam on peaty pools, a Black Woodpecker flew across a ride and we came across a pair of Capercaillies together in a clearing as the morning sun began to filter through the trees. From the tops of young Spruce in the clearings, Tree Pipits launched into their display flights and Wood Sandpipers sang, while Snipe ‘drummed’ around them. As it grew warmer, Brimstone butterflies danced along the rides where Wood Anemones grew and we breathed in the gorgeous scent of Spruce resin. Deeper in the forest we found Crested Tits and heard the melodic bubbling song of Black Grouse. And shortly after watching a flock of Waxwings disappear into the trees we heard a Ural Owl calling and came across the greatest marvel of the trip – the female owl at her nest in a hollow stump! Unable to believe our luck, we watched the huge bird fly silently through the forest to perch next to her mate on a high branch.

In the north-east of the country we spent a night in a bear hide, hoping to see European Brown Bears. We were disappointed on this occasion, but forest Ravens, Jays and Hooded Crows kept us entertained until dusk and we did see Raccoon Dogs, Fox and a small ‘gliding handkerchief’ which was likely to have been a Siberian Flying Squirrel. In the same area by daylight a Camberwell Beauty flew down the forest edge. 

Our final stay was at Kabli, close to the Latvian border. Our hotel room overlooked the Baltic and some beautiful sunsets, not to mention Long-tailed Ducks, Red-breasted Mergansers and a passing Arctic Skua. Migrants were beginning to arrive, with Serins and Hoopoe in the hotel grounds, Red-backed Shrikes and a singing Icterine Warbler outside it, as well as a rufous morph female Cuckoo. Additionally we had Comma butterfly, a dead Polecat and crippling views of a Lesser Spotted Eagle by the roadside. At Nigula Bog reserve two Great Grey Shrikes were prospecting, probably for the Common Lizards basking on the boardwalk, parasitic Toothwort was in flower and Spotted Flycatchers were in the car park trees. Pikla Ponds, a coastal reserve with reedbeds 30 minutes’ drive away, produced Citrine and Blue-headed Wagtails, while Savi’s and Great Reed Warblers were singing simultaneously and a Bittern was booming. We also had hundreds of ducks and swans, White-tailed Eagle, Water Rail, Baltic Gull, Spotted Redshank and numerous other species here. 

On our last venture deep into the forest, amid a chorus of Wood Warblers, an unfamiliar song stopped us in our tracks. At last, a great excuse to use the sound recorder! The following short recording is one song-burst from a small warbler at the top of a tall Birch tree. A fantastic song given with real gusto and the same delivery every time for up to 1 hour! Despite straining necks and eyes all we could see was a small warbler.....

After nine days in this amazing country we just did not want to leave! 

Gaynor Chapman.